okay… this post is, like, my magnum opus, or something. i started it just over a month ago, and have been working on it steadily. because i care about food. also? i love ridiculing martha fucking stewart. stupid ho. so enjoy!
i rarely follow recipes. even when i do, i almost always make so many substitutions and tweaks that my end product bears little resemblance to what the recipe intended. however, for the last several months, i’ve been going through a backlog of several years’ worth of a bunch of different cooking magazines, clipping the recipes that look promising, and making entire menus of recipe-driven dishes, just for shits and grins. (also? i vacuum in high heels and a pearl necklace.) here are the cooking magazines, not only in order from best to worst, but also divided into three categories: “awesome,” “worth a look,” and “some old bullshit.” mostly because i wanted an excuse to use the word “bullshit” repeatedly in this post. clever, no?
AWESOME:
MAXIM – hands down, my favorite cooking magazine. “but that’s not a cooking magazine,” you’re thinking. well, mostly not. but it gave me two of my favorite recipes of all time: chocolate-dipped potato chips and deep-fried bacon. (the deep-fried bacon is actually part of a 6-part series entitled “bacon porn.” this month’s contribution to the series: bacon bowls. for salads, of course!) shut up. you know it’s an awesome idea. also? boobies. lots of them. and fart jokes!
BON APPETIT – the complaint most people have is that the recipes involve too much work or too many odd ingredients. now, a few of the recipes are pretty labor-instensive. but a lot of them aren’t. and they’re really good about only calling for oddball ingredients when absolutely necessary. every issue has a good mix of easy and hard, desserts, side dishes and main courses, and traditional and avant garde. and most importantly – aside from it tasting good, obviously – is that almost every recipe is something i just wouldn’t have thought of on my own. more on that later.
just in the last couple of weeks, for example, recipes that i have made from bon appetit include: caramel-walnut upside-down banana cake (and oh my GOD. best non-chocolate containing dessert i’ve had in forever. and by dessert, i mean i ate half the damn cake instead of dinner. which is why i’m now laying in bed with the laptop and PRM is taking care of me), butternut squash gratin with goat cheese, sage and hazelnuts (replace “1 cup heavy whipping cream” with “some skim milk and some buttermilk and some cream cheese to approximate the right consistency” to keep my husband’s arteries from jumping out of his body to bitch-slap me), cornmeal biscuits with cheddar and chipotle, cabbage and corn slaw with orange and cilantro dressing, and plantain picadillo pie with cheese.
also, this magazine has been the source of some of my favorite desserts – stuff that i make over and over. chocolate bread pudding with bourbon-custard sauce (start with a loaf of cinnamon bread. melt six candy bars. i’ve made this several times since last summer, and have had to give the recipe to everyone in a 3-block radius), apple galette (i’ve made it with apples, with peaches, and i’m damn well making it with cherries as soon as our trees start producing), la bete noir (“the black beast,” a flourless chocolate cake that is the finest vehicle for getting coldstone creamery’s cake batter ice cream in your mouth as i can imagine. okay, maybe you’re imagining using shakira’s nipple to get it to your mouth, but that’s just because you have a penis, not because my imagination is limited.)
okay, remember how i said they only make it labor-intensive or call for oddball ingredients if it’s really, really worth it? i have this recipe i’m saving for when my fellow peanut-butter freak IAlsoHaveADream comes to visit: i just special-ordered some cocoa butter and cocoa nibs from amazon. they are necessary for the 4-part recipe “peanut butter shortbread with peanut butter ice cream and peanut crunch.” it will take me all day to make. and it will be worth it. the end product goes something like this: “spoon 1/4 cup of the milk chocolate creme anglaise into the center of each of 8 plates. place shortbread cookie in center of each plate, then top with peanut crunch round. stack two scoops of peanut butter ice cream on each, garnish with honey-roasted peanuts, and serve.”
yeah. i need to go have a private moment, too.
SOUTHERN LIVING – t’ain’t low fat, but damn is it good. because sometimes, dinner just needs to be a barbecued pork pot pie with a cheese grits crust. (when my baby grows up to be obese, he can tell his therapist about that one. he ate about half the pan.) and they always have some awesome things to do with meat. like bourbon-maple smoked turkey. or like the caribbean rice and peas with slow-roasted pork i made last week. and the desserts don’t ever pull any punches. chocolate-pecan-bourbon pie. peanut butter banana pudding. southern living’s desserts are satan. and satan loves you very, very much.
SAVEUR – this started out lower on this list. i initially considered placing it in the “some old bullshit” list, but eh, if nothing else, the photography is really gorgeous. it’s as much a travel magazine as it is a cooking magazine, and their photos of both the exotic locales and the exotic food are impeccably artistic. the recipes, at first glance, seemed mostly lame. i understand that people in thailand eat dishes constructed entirely around fish eyeballs. that doesn’t mean i want that shit in my house, though, and i think these fuckers know that. but they present recipes for stuff like that, using “the wierdest shit we could find” as ersatz “authenticity.”
now, annoying as that is, they totally make up for it with a lot of authentic recipes that are really freakin good. like the french recipe for “thick crepes with apples.” oh my GOD. crepe batter that’s allowed to rise with yeast for several hours, then cooked into fat, cinnamon-laden cakes, topped with thick slices of apples that have been sauteed in butter, molasses and apple cider into an intensely fruity reduction…. damn, was it good. it’s not a breakfast dish (unless you happen to not mind getting up at 3 am to start cooking breakfast for a bunch of ungrateful buttmunches) but sunday brunch? oh hells yes.
also, it’s the ONLY magazine (or cookbook, for that matter!) that i can say gave me utterly authentic-tasting results for a variety of previously elusive ethnic cuisines. for example, i’ve attempted to make ethiopian food several times, and while it’s always been good, it’s never been quite RIGHT. then i followed the recipes in last months saveur, and holy crap, it tasted like i had stolen the foul-tempered ethiopian grandma from the kitchen at our favorite local ethiopian restaurant and put her ass to work in my kitchen for 12 cents a day. they listed all the right ingredients, AND explained all the necessary techniques. for example, the recipes for the spice mix and spiced butter (the basis of virtually every ethiopian dish) that i got from a couple of other cookbooks (“soul and spice,” and “a taste of eritrea”) that claimed to be authentic… yeah. fuck those poseurs. saveur’s recipe? dead-on. the poseurs were lacking the spices kalonji and methi. also, the round, crepe-like bread that is served with ethiopian meals… other recipes just weren’t the same as the sour, dark brown, spongy breads i’ve gotten at restaurants. saveur fixed that: start with a sourdough starter, use tef flour instead of wheat flour, let it sit and get REALLY sour for several hours, and then, instead of using a standard crepe technique, you cook it in a pan for one minute, then cover it so it steams for another minute… perfect. i can now throw away those other two worthless cookbooks.
i’ve gotten the same awesome results from saveur for indian food (ground lamb and peas in spiced yogurt)… middle eastern food (chicken with saffron, almonds and chickpeas)… eastern european food (saveur’s recipe for goulash was probably the 10th one i’ve tried, and it was the first one that tasted like it actually came from eastern europe.) i’ve been so impressed that i’m going to go ahead and attempt their russian spread (bread stuffed with rice and fish… don’t tell PRM. he’ll eat it if you KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT.)
oh, and finally… strangely enough, it was the source of the best candy recipe of all time, period. it was called something innocuous, like “coconut candy bars,” but the name didn’t do it justice. they are a quintessential clusterfuck of all-american bad-for-you goodness: sweetened condensed milk, coconut flakes, peanut butter, chocolate chips, a “graham cracker crust” (translation: several sticks of butter, a bunch of sugar, and some graham crackers). i totally improved on it by using molasses and honey in the crust instead of sugar, and some batches got a layer of gooey nut mess (some bourbon pecan pralines that i failed to get to set properly.) so… whiskey, graham crackers, peanut butter, chocolate, coconut. really, if you could incorporate football and playboy bunny boobies, you could just name this dessert it “THE AMERICAN” and call it a day. i gave several variants of this stuff to at least 20 different people, and every one of them said it was oh… my… god. newfiemama and radhippie’s little girl, who weighs all of about 12 pounds, quietly ate her weight in these candy bars in one sitting.
COOKING LIGHT – sounds lame, but when you get sick of looking at recipes that call for several sticks of butter, pints of whipping cream, etc, this magazine is full of stuff that is a good balance of “tastes good” and “won’t put you in an early and extra-wide grave.”
WORTH A LOOK:
WILLIAMS SONOMA CATALOG – there are always several recipes in every catalog, smashed into the margins amid the $2000 espresso makers and $600 toasters. and every recipe calls for ingredients that they sell at ridiculous mark-ups. but their proprietary ingredients are easy enough to figure out… when their recipe calls for a $24 jar of their “pumpkin pecan filling” … well, duh. $3 can of pumpkin, $3 bag of pecans, some sugar, some spices. and you really don’t NEED their $80 “filled pancakes pan” to make the “maple walnut filled pancakes,” so long as you don’t mind your pancakes being shaped a bit like the ass end of cupcakes.
i worked for williams-sonoma for a few months over the holidays back in the day, and in addition to holding the record for selling $600 toasters (who knew i was that full of shit? okay, you probably did. but i didn’t, until i pulled that off!), i also learned how to make several awesome dishes for the “holiday cooking demonstrations and tastings” that are some of our family favorites. like the one i call “tuber mess” … chop up a bunch of carrots, sweet potatoes, potatoes, and parsnips. lightly coat with olive oil and herbs de provence, and bake. my kind of recipe… proportions are fuzzy. also, hybrid pecan-pumpkin pie. genius, i tell you.
GOURMET – gourmet is basically a shitty version of saveur. i honestly don’t know why gourmet exists, given that i think it actually comes from the same publisher as saveur. it’s like the publishers sent a bunch of votech dropouts to the same locations as the college-educated gourmands that work for saveur. and the dropouts took pictures of the same things, except with shitty cameras, while they were tweaking on meth. then, at the end of their trip, when the expense account had been bled dry, and their articles and recipes were due, they remembered 3 of the 10+ ingredients for the recipes, scribbled them on a napkin at the last minute and handed them in to their bosses to avoid getting fired. and while mostly forgettable, occasionally, they’re not bad. this magazine almost made it into the “some old bullshit” category, except that this month, they had a recipe for homemade fruit roll-ups. come on… you know that’s cool as hell. especially when you can make it any shape you want. like, say, “novelty underwear.” yeah. now you’re with me.
MARTHA STEWART EVERYDAY FOOD – oh, lord, did i ever want to put this in the “some old bullshit” category. desperately. i fucking hate martha stewart. she’s obsessed with arugula. seriously. every issue. i challenge you to find an issue that doesn’t want you to buy some goddamned arugula and pretend it’s something more awesome that yet another variety of fucking LETTUCE. she throws some arugula on a sloppy joe, a slice of spam, a goddamned apple, and pretends she’s invented some prize-winning haute cuisine.
every fucking issue that i’ve gotten (and i’ve been getting it since new years) has some shit in some peanut sauce. seriously. sometimes she calls it “satay.” sometimes she calls it “some shit in peanut sauce.” but … come on. peanut-soy-rice vinegar-sesame oil-coconut. on shrimp. or pork. or beef. or chicken. with noodles. or rice. or cabbage. we get it already. it was avant-garde 15 years ago. get over it. oh, and while you’re at it? katie couric called from 1993. she wants her helmet-hair back. stupid ho.
the photography is shit. pure, utter shit. i’ve never been so annoyed at pictures of food. how the fuck do you manage to make a plate of cupcakes look bleah? I DON’T KNOW. cupcakes are awesome, right? everybody loves cupcakes. fucking martha stewart? she can make cupcakes look like shit. i’m not kidding. everything about the magazine is ugly. look at the goddamned logo if you don’t believe me: 
the articles are fucking terrible. last month’s features included: “reuseable cloth grocery bags.” this was awesomely informative news… in 1991. oh, and who could live without the handy chart on “how long do condiments keep?” because i totally might not have thrown out that bottle of ketchup on its expiration date. you know… the one printed on the bottle.
i wish i was making this up.
martha stewart’s other favorite thing to do, besides masturbate with arugula, take shitty pictures, and tell you shit you already knew, is to present the umpteenth recipe for some shit your great-grandma knew how to make with her eyes closed. (and i don’t mean some old recipe that time hath forgotten… i mean some shit that your grandma, your mom, and probably you could also make without thinking real hard about it.) like “chocolate brownies.” or “chicken and biscuits.” and i don’t mean she presents an old idea with an interesting new twist. i mean she pretty much copies some shit straight out of the joy of cooking. period. oh, and takes a shitty picture of the end product. i’m all for “simple,” but fucking christ, woman, if you’re going to steal an idea, at least put some effort into it – give it an interesting twist. something. anything!!! because, motherfuckballs, i already know that apples and onions go well with cabbage. seriously. stick to stealing investment money, lady, because you suck even worse at stealing recipes.
on those rare occasions where she presents a recipe that i’m actually interested in making, i almost invariably wind up changing it so much that my end product is completely different from hers. like her “chicken panini and green pea soup” dinner. the green pea soup was seriously nothing more than peas and salt and chicken stock… ew. but i threw in some smoked chicken bits… a few fresh herbs… some ground pepper… i have my doubts about her green pea soup, but mine totally rocked. the panini were pretty blech too… “cheddar scallion panini.” so… grilled cheese sandwiches with onion on it. brilliant. stupid ho. i used smoked gouda and feta, a bunch of sauteed spinach with a little onion and garlic, used my homemade sourdough, and threw in some grilled chicken breast, too. so… my menu bore little resemblance to the martha stewart menu that inspired it. but at least i’m giving her credit. unlike a certain joy of cooking bandit. stupid ho.
now. all of this is quite a list of complaints. but when it comes down to it… she has recipes like wrapping a chicken breast in prosciutto, broiling it, then serving it with a lemon wedge to squooze on it. and dammit… that was a good idea. also, the “fish tacos with salsa verde and radish salad.” her salsa verde was definitely some old bullshit (an entire bunch of cilantro in a blender. talk about an unbalanced flavor profile) but change that to a few sprigs of cilantro to go with the slices of scallion, radish, jalapeno, and lime juice, on coriander-roasted tilapia in a tortilla… that was really good. about once a month, she totally fucking redeems the other 131 pages of her shitty, shitty magzine with a single awesome recipe, so i begrudgingly allow her shitty, shitty magazine to continue to show up at my house.
seriously, though? anyone who declares martha stewart’s everyday food their favorite cooking magazine? you have to wonder about head injuries.
magazines that did not make the list because they suck donkey balls, are completely worthless, without a single redeeming quality save, perhaps, the humor value…
SOME OLD BULLSHIT:
KRAFT FOOD AND FAMILY: okay. do i REALLY need an illustrated notecard to show me that i can stir shit like peas and hotdogs into macaroni and cheese? seriously, these fuckwad food engineers at kraft get paid like $80,000-$120,000 a year (trust me, i seriously considered majoring in food engineering for a while), do tons of “market research” and “focus group testing,” and the best they can do to try to entice me to buy more of their shit is endless “no bake cheesecake” variations (yes. graham crackers and cream cheese are good with raspberries. or strawberries. or chocolate and caramel. I FUCKING GET IT ALREADY!) and “mayonnaise and noodles and some other shit, possibly vegetable matter, baked with cheese.”
CUISINE AT HOME: the whole concept here is “real people” send in their favorite recipes. reading it, you realize that “real people” – even those so proud of their cooking prowess that they will share their recipes with the rest of the nation – suck at cooking. the recipes are either “standard” or “different, yet nasty.” the pictures of the proud chefs have a certain deranged entertainment value, but beyond that, the magazine is definitely some old bullshit. (okay, i’ll admit… i clipped and glued to a notecard a recipe for baked sweet potatoes with maple and jalapeno sour cream from this magazine. and i loved it. but PRM hated it, so i defer to his generally better-than-mine judgement, and consign this magazine to the “some old bullshit” list until further notice.)
BODY + SOUL okay, as i was looking for a link to this piece of shit magazine of tasteless granola and grilled chicken breast recipes, i noticed… that it’s a fucking MARTHA STEWART PUBLICATION. why am i not surprised? i guess i was fooled by the thin veneer of articles on “how to tell your doctor he’s full of shit and eschew evidence-based medicine in favor of herbal pills” and “top ten reasons not to immunize your child against deadly childhood diseases.”
anyway. i know there are 8 million other cooking magazines out there, but these are the ones i’ve gotten for free or as gifts in the last couple of years, so that’s all you get out of me. now i’m gonna go choose my menu for the forthcoming casa de loser cinco de mayo eat-a-thon. because the homies gots to have fresh tortillas to go with the margaritas!